Many gardeners prefer autumn planting. Although there is no significant difference between autumn and spring planting, there are advantages and disadvantages. Next, we learn how to plant raspberries in the fall, and what needs to be done to get a crop next summer?
When is raspberry planted in the fall?
Autumn is considered the most favorable time for planting raspberries. During the time left before the cold, the seedlings have time to take root, the existing root system is not only strengthened, but also replenished with new roots.
Raspberries are planted in the fall if:
- The variety is winter hardy. It is better to plant non-winter-hard raspberries in the spring.
- The weather favors autumn planting - this is especially true for the southern regions and the temperate climate.
- We need to get the crop as soon as possible. Having planted seedlings in the fall, in the summer the gardener receives the first berries. Raspberries planted in spring only bear fruit for next year.
We recommend reading an article about the best raspberries.
Landing dates in different regions
The time for planting raspberries in autumn is chosen taking into account the climate in the region. The seedlings should have enough time - at least 3-4 weeks, to root well.
Features autumn planting raspberries in the regions:
Region | When to plant? | Note |
Midland and Volga region | September to October | Here raspberries can be planted at any time, but it is the autumn planting that makes it stronger and more durable. |
Northern regions, Siberia and the Urals | Until the first of September | It is important to focus on current weather conditions. If at the end of summer it is cool and damp, then it is better to postpone the landing in the spring. Autumn planting threatens death and fungal diseases in this case. The ranks are necessarily located from north to south. |
South and southern regions | From mid-September to November | Saplings have time to take root and strengthen well. |
According to the lunar calendar
Today, many gardeners, performing work in the garden, are guided by the lunar calendar. Agrotechnical measures carried out on favorable days are more effective.
According to the lunar calendar for 2019:
- Favorable autumn days for planting raspberry seedlings - 1-4, 7-9, September 17-19.
- Adverse days are September 10-11, 14, 20-22, 24-25, and 28.
Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting
Why is it profitable to plant raspberries in the fall:
- At this time, the market has a lot of planting material at an affordable cost - you can choose any variety. Seedlings are often sold with berries so that the buyer sees what he is buying. In spring, the choice is always less.
- The weather is not hot in autumn, humidity is increased, and at night the temperature drops. Such weather conditions activate root growth in seedlings. In spring, the weather can change dramatically, temperature changes from heat to cool negatively affect the growth of newly planted seedlings. In autumn there is no such problem.
- Simple care. After planting, seedlings require a minimum of care - the main agricultural activities are postponed until the spring.
- In autumn, the seedling accumulates nutrients, the plant strengthens. A seedling planted in the spring spends energy on the growth of green mass, and at the same time it still has to take root. Due to this energy expenditure, spring seedlings are weaker than autumn ones.
The autumn landing has one minus - you need to carefully monitor the weather so as not to make a mistake with the landing time. It is not always possible to accurately guess the best time.
What conditions are needed?
In order for the autumn landing to succeed, you must fulfill several conditions, here are the most important:
- Seedlings take only annuals.
- Carefully select a site - it must meet the requirements of illumination, soil composition, etc.
- Stock up on water - under each bush you have to pour 8 liters.
- Check the quality of the planting - if the seedling is easily pulled up when pulling out, transplant it, otherwise it will freeze.
- Choose a planting time so that it remains about a month before the frost - so that the roots take root, and the buds do not have time to wake up.
- Landing is carried out at an air humidity of 80%, and at a temperature of 10-15 ° C.
How to choose seedlings?
You can not count on good yields without quality planting material. What are the signs of choosing annual raspberry seedlings:
- developed root system;
- root length - 10 cm;
- flexible shoots about 1 cm thick at the base;
- there should be no signs of rot on the roots.
Take seedlings with closed roots. Such planting material is usually offered by nurseries and garden centers. Raspberry seedlings grown in separate containers are transplanted by transshipment with a lump of earth. The survival rate of such seedlings is almost 100%.
Choosing a landing place
Requirements for the site for planting raspberries:
- Lighting. Good sun exposure. It is advisable that the sun's rays fall on the site most of the day. You can not plant raspberries between fruit trees - aeration and lighting deteriorate, yield decreases.
- Relief and humidity. Drafts and wind have a bad effect on raspberries, so it is best to plant it closer to the fence, retreating at least a meter. Slopes on which the soil can dry out are not suitable for planting.
The culture is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate excessive waterlogging - the roots rot. You can not plant raspberries in the lowlands where water stagnates. The groundwater level is at least 1.5 m from the surface. - Neighborhood. The best neighbors are currants, blackberries. It is undesirable to place raspberry trees next to competing crops - grapes and sea buckthorn.
When choosing a place for planting, it is necessary to take into account crop rotation:
- The worst predecessors for raspberries - nightshade (eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes) and strawberries (strawberries).
- The best predecessors - pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, beans, green manure.
The following video talks about the best place to plant raspberries in the fall:
Repeated raspberries in place of the former raspberry can be planted after 4-5 years.
Landing site preparation
Soil preparation begins 1.5 months before raspberry planting, the procedure for preparing the site:
- Dig the earth deeper - at least 30 cm. Thoroughly break the lumps.
- When digging, remove weed rhizomes.
- Under digging, apply fertilizer, per 1 sq. Km. m:
- humus - 2 buckets;
- superphosphate - 60 g;
- potassium sulfate - 50 g.
- Smooth the dug up earth with a rake.
Soil requirements
Raspberries love fertile soils. If the soil is poor in nutrients, raspberry leaves turn pale, turn yellow. Choosing and preparing the soil for planting, consider the following:
- Loam. The best option. These soils retain water well. Humus is added to them and high-quality claydite drainage is made - the soil is ideal for raspberries.
- Sandstones. Also a great option. Well-permeable soil in which water does not stagnate.
- Sandstones. Raspberry grows well on sandy soils, but only if fertilizers and regular watering are applied.
- Clay soil. An undesirable option - raspberries on clay soils grows weak and unproductive. Sand is added to clay soil - a bucket per 1 sq. Km. m
The ratio of raspberries to soil acidity:
- Optimal soil acidity is neutral.
- Lime is added to acidic soils - 0.5 kg per 1 sq. Km. m
- Alkaline soils are unfavorable. Therefore, special care should be taken to add chalk and ash - they, alkalizing the soil, can provoke root cancer. Gardeners often make ash during the formation of berries - to improve their taste.
You can find out the approximate level of acidity by observing the growth of weeds. On strongly acidified soils, plantain, sorrel, horsetail, and fireweed grow especially rapidly. On neutral soils there is a lot of clover and nettle.
The correct distance between the bushes
There is so much space between the raspberry bushes that they grow comfortably, are well lit, ventilated, and are accessible for care. The distance between the bushes depends on the method of planting:
- If raspberries are planted in rows, between adjacent seedlings should be at least 70-100 cm. Between rows - 1-1.5 m. It is allowed to plant no more than 2 seedlings in one hole.
- If the tape method is used, in the rows the step is 35-50 cm. The distance between the tapes is 1.8-2 m.
Landing methods and instructions for them
Raspberries are planted, most often, in a bush or trench way. Farms usually use the tape method. Consider all three methods in more detail.
Bush
This method of planting is used in regions with high humidity. Thick raspberry bush contributes to good ventilation of the bushes and reduce the incidence of disease. The bush method does not require preliminary fertilizing of the soil.
Step-by-step instruction:
- 2 weeks before planting, dig holes 40 cm deep. The diameter of the holes is 30-40 cm.
- Pip 5 kg of humus or compost into each pit.
- Prepare a mixture of 1/2 excavated soil and fertilizers - superphosphate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (10 g). You can replace the latter with two glasses of ash.
- Fill approximately half of the pit with soil.
- Place the seedling in the pit, spreading the roots in different directions.
- Make sure to bury the roots so that the root neck of the seedling does not fall below the soil level.
- When filling the roots with soil, periodically shake the seedling so that there are no voids between its roots.
- Form a circular hole around the seedling and pour 5 l of water into it.
- Shorten the shoots, their height should be about 20 cm.
- Mulch the soil with hay, straw or humus.
This video shows the autumn planting of raspberries, in which you can get a very good harvest next season:
Tape
Planting in a tape or single-row method is somewhat more complicated than the bush method, but it is it that is most popular when raspberries are grown in large areas.
Step-by-step instruction:
- Dig a ditch - “tape”, 40-50 cm wide. Depth - from 40 cm. Length - at your discretion.
- Put fertilizer into the ditch and mix it thoroughly with the excavated soil. Fertilizer application rate per 1 sq. Km. m:
- rotted manure - 3 kg;
- superphosphate - 30 g;
- potassium salt - 20 g.
- Place the seedlings at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. The interval between rows is 1.5-2 m. When choosing a planting scheme, consider the height of the bushes - it depends on the variety. If raspberries are tall, do maximum intervals.
- Plant seedlings so that their roots are located vertically, without bending. Saplings planted in a ribbon way form a straight line.
In addition to the single-row method, there is a two-row method of landing. It almost does not differ from the previous one, but the bushes are planted in a ribbon in 2 rows:
- In the tape, rows are located at a distance of 40-80 cm from each other, depending on the tallness of the variety.
- The interval between seedlings is the same as with the single-row tape method - 40-50 cm.
The main plus of the two-row method is space saving.
Trench
The trench method is a kind of tape landing. Its main difference is a nutritional pillow, laid at the bottom of the trench. The pillow has long been a nutrient source for raspberries. And thanks to the decomposition of plant residues, the bushes receive additional heat.
Step-by-step instruction:
- Dig a trench 40-50 cm wide. Depth - 60-70 cm.
- If the soil is heavy, clay, lay gravel and sand on the bottom of the trench with a layer of 10-15 cm. Then lay a pillow - first branches, then fallen leaves, hay and green mass. For uniform "ripening" of the layers, you can shift them with sawdust or fertile soil.
- Water the layers of plant debris well.
- Lay the soil mixture from fertile soil, organics and mineral fertilizers on top - prepare it as described above. Next, the seedlings are planted - the same as with the tape method.
As a plant basis for a nutritious pillow, only healthy shrubs and trees are taken.
Regardless of the landing method chosen, it is recommended to enclose the edges of the landing. To do this, slate or boards are buried in the ground - this will prevent raspberries from spreading over the site.
In the presented video, the gardener shares the experience of autumn planting of raspberries with the trench method:
After landing care
Care consists in maintaining normal soil moisture and preparing plantings for winter. So that in time - before the frost, to complete all the autumn agricultural activities, it is necessary to monitor the weather.
Do I need to water?
During planting, raspberries are watered, then you need to pause - without additional moisture, the root system of seedlings will grow and develop better. In many regions, it rains in the fall - watering planted raspberries is definitely not required there. And only after some time after planting, if the soil is dry, seedlings are watered.
Before winter, experienced gardeners recommend making water-loading irrigation - it makes the shrub more frost-resistant. The earth should be moistened 40 cm deep.
Is top dressing necessary?
Fertilizing in the fall is not necessary - all the useful organic substances, as well as potassium and phosphorus, the plant received during planting. Plant planted nutrition is provided for 2-3 years.
If raspberries are planted in non-fertilized sandy soils, fertilizers can be applied immediately after planting. Between the rows, dig grooves with a depth of 15 cm - for the entire length of the row. Fertilizers are applied at the rate of 40 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate per plant. First, the right amount of fertilizer is poured into the grooves, and then they are filled with water to dissolve the minerals.
Mulching
Autumn mulching is used from the first year of raspberry life. Mulch is scattered immediately after planting - with a thin layer, and immediately before frosts a thick layer is poured. Thanks to this procedure, the root system is protected. This is especially important in the absence of snow cover.
For mulching use organic materials with a neutral acidic environment.
Organic Raspberry Mulch:
- Peat. The perfect solution. This organic marsh origin is best suited for raspberries. It can even be laid on snow that has suddenly fallen. A layer of 5-7 cm thick is enough for winter shelter.
- Sawdust. This accessible material is more popular with gardeners than others. Sawdust turns into humus in 2-3 years
- Compost. It is less suitable for autumn mulching raspberries than others because of its high nitrogen content.
Also, straw and beautiful foliage can be used as mulch - they are usually used before wintering.
Winter preparations
In the southern regions, raspberries planted in autumn can not be covered - just mulching is enough. In the middle lane and in the northern regions, the future raspberry is harbored for the winter. The arranged shelters are designed for snowing in winter and protecting the seedlings from frost. Plants that do not fall under shelter run the risk of freezing.
The order of preparation of young raspberries:
- If there is no rain, water the plantings.
- Loosen and mulch the soil with a thick layer of organic matter - peat, dry foliage, spruce branches. Mulch protects the roots from freezing and at the same time is a source of nutrients. The mulch layer should have a thickness of 5-10 cm, otherwise there will be no effect from it.
If the variety is not frost-resistant, or the winter temperatures in the region are very low, you will have to bend the seedlings to the ground. This is done a week before the frost. Bend seedlings should be extremely careful. They are laid on one side and fixed. In winter, they throw snow on the raspberry.
Popular mistakes newcomers during the first landings
Errors in planting, due to which it is not possible to get a large crop:
- Raspberries planted too early. Rooted, seedlings have time to shoot.When activated, the plant may suffer during the first frost, its immunity will be reduced.
- The raspberry-tree settles in a shaded place. Due to the lack of sun, the plant reaches for the light, its shoots are thinning, they do not have time to ripen by the end of the season. Because of this, in winter, part of the buds - at the ends of the shoots, freezes.
- The raspberry is planted on clay soils where moisture stagnation is observed.
- During planting, seedlings are poorly trimmed. The aboveground part delays nutrition, interfering with rooting.
- Low-quality seedlings were used - too old, with dry roots, defects, traces of diseases (a description of raspberry diseases is written here), damaged by insects.
When to wait for fruiting after planting?
Harvesting the very first summer is one of the main advantages of autumn planting. But for this plus to be realized, it is necessary to provide seedlings with proper care. If young animals are short of water, freeze in winter, be affected by pests, then next year's harvest will be scarce or raspberries will not produce berries at all.
Conditions for harvesting for next year:
- proper planting - healthy planting material, laying fertilizers, etc .;
- ensuring normal soil moisture;
- thorough shelter for the winter - in accordance with winter temperatures;
- tillage under the bushes of Karbofos - 10 ml per bucket of water (designed for one bush);
- cultivate the soil with a solution of copper sulfate - from fungi and lichens.
If the seedlings survive the winter safely and receive proper care in the spring, then the first berries will appear in July-August, depending on the maturity of the variety.
The most difficult thing in the autumn planting of any culture is choosing the right moment. If the planted raspberries dissolve the kidneys before frosts, you do not have to count on the crop. Otherwise, planting raspberries in the fall is simple, and is a standard set of agricultural activities.
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